Qilai Mountains 奇萊山 (4 days, 50 km, ↑2800 m, ↓3800 m)

posted in: mountains | 0
We got very strong experience in Qilai Mountains. These mountains are little mysterious for many ghost stories and some parts are very difficult to overcome. Memories from this trip remain in our mind and we will return there one day. Respect to Qilai soul.

Petr & Eva (August 2013)

Qilai mountains belong to Taroko NP and there is necessary apply for NP permit and later on for permit to mountains (National Police Agency). We applied in July 2013 for NP permit via email, but seems that they have online system in english, please follow instruction there – Entry Permit Application.
First day we entered to Qilai from 合歡山莊 Héhuān shānzhuāng on Road No. 14甲, 33rd kilometer. First kilometers lead to 黑水塘 Hēi shuǐ táng where is small cottage which can be reach even during the dark if you come really late. Under steeper ascent is bigger hute 成功山屋 Chénggōng shānwū, just don’t try sleep in small shelters above the house, because there are many ghost stories about. We continued same day up to the north peak 奇萊北峰 Qí lái běifēng, the ascent was really difficult because you have to climb across roots and rock in first forest part and later on scree and rocky sections up to 3605 masl. We had very cloudy weather and could see anything around.

On the south under nort peak is Chilai shan small house 奇萊山屋 Qí lái shānwū, but we had plan explore also east part from north peak and we continued to 磐石西峰黑水塘營地 (Xifeng camp, no source of water) where we stay overnight in tent. We walk little around and we found some old clothes on very very strange place under rock very close to deep cliff. We still dont know what could happend there, it looks like somebody undress and jump down. Another explanation is that some animal collect it there, but… Eva studied Qilai mountains and she found many ghost stories about, I felt little anxious even I tried to keep clear mind for real explanation.

Anyway we return to our tent and prepared for sleeping and we saw single deer very close to our tent, we didn’t understand why he didn’t scare and came visit us. Actually we got explanation after our trip – deer like taste of human urina and they eat the grass with it. He aslo stood during the night and protect us.

Second day woke up to ugly weather, everywhere around our tent was lot of water. My original plan was continue to east to 磐石山 Pánshí shān and then return, but bad weather allowed explore just little bit around (actually go to 磐石山 is very difficult according to information) and then continue back across north peak to 奇萊山屋 Chilaishan house. We walk in cloud which also brought lot of water and we were weat from walking in high grass.

Finally reach again north peak and start go down to 奇萊山, during short time the weather changed and we could finally see mountains around. The saddle around the house was really amazing and we enjoy looking around. When we reached the house we put out our wet dress on the trees and make it dry quite quickly. We were really happy that weather changed and hoped that tomorrow will be also fine.

We cooked some yummy food and then walked down for water. The stream is really very low and you have to climb down around 150 vertical meters. There were enough bottles and I decided took more fresh water if anybody will come in following days, together brought around 20 L of nice water. We really enjoyed the view around and went sleep soon. The night was in cottage and it was very silent, we still remember the stories about this mountains, for example how somebody made picture and on the back were some figure, but it was nobody from the single group which was there during maiking the photo, more about here.

Third day kicked out very soon because we had to cross very difficult part and didnt want risk any changing of the weather which was very good at the morning.Walking to main peak 奇萊主山 Qí lái zhǔ shān is very easy and you can let your bag under final ascent, main peak is little lower 3560 m than north one, but we could see finally everything around as the cliff ridge which we will have to go and also Hehuanshan mountains 合歡山 (after month run marathon on the road there). The ridge following ridge was difficul and Eva known it, she pray to god lot for good weather and everything smooth.

We spent more then five hours in this cliff, it was really very difficult if you have to carry bigger bag and care about Eva which was very greenhorn in this time. Some parts were very exposed to both sides, usually with scree on one side and with some bush on another. We had to climb vertical down on the ropes on very broken and unstable rocks in some phases. We were happy that we reach small spot for rest (tent can be here in case), but no more easy and very long part was still before us. There were more bushes and even walking on cliff in bamboo and it really seemed to be endless. But finally came to very big scree slide where was little complicated find way (go left down), but we finally swithc it to the forest.

Really happy that everything was smooth and we enjoyed walking under south peak 南華山 in nice green land. We just let bag under sout peak and walked quickly up to the top 南華山 Nán huàshān and then back. On the top was some cottage before many year and you can still see basics of it. Already very tired we went down to the Tianchi cottage 天池山莊 Tiānchí shānzhuāng, where you can do reservation (500 NTD/night, very full usually) many days before or just sleep outside in tent as we did. Eva were really tired and she was happy for a taking nap and I cooked some strange noodles.

We met only one guy in first day and two guys in second day. Te first one was some graduated student and he went clean his brain to mountains, he really made his trip very challenge because he pass the difficult cliff in our second day when weather was really unstable with raining and wind, bu he did it. Then only us pass it in these days, no many people go from main to south.

Fourth day just went down on Western Nen-gao Trail 能高越嶺古道 能高越嶺古道 Néng gāo yuè lǐng gǔdào to exit of mountains close to 廬山 Lúshān. This trail is usually very broken but very fast for walking. Evas mother came for us by car, and first day her brother took us up. We were tired, but very happy that everything was smooth and that Qilai mountains showed us every beauty and even mystery of them. We will return, thank you.

Daily itinerary, map and timing:

Day 1: 奇萊登山口→ 黑水塘(cottage) → 成功山屋 (bigger cottage) → 奇萊北峰 (Chilai North Peak) → 磐石西峰黑水塘營地(tent, water)

Day 2:  磐石西峰黑水塘營地 → 磐石山奇萊北峰 → 奇萊山屋 (Chilaishan house or tent, water 150 m lower)

Day 3: 奇萊山屋 → 奇萊池山 → 奇萊主山 (Chilai main peak) → 卡東(峭壁, cliffts – very difficult part, 5+ hours) →   南峰 登山口 (to south peak, 溪谷,water, in case tent) →  奇萊南峰 → 南華山 (sout peak) → 天池叉路口 → 天池山莊 (house – reservation 500 NTD or tent, water)

Day 4:  能高越嶺古道 Western Nen-gao Trail: 天池山莊 → 瀑布,吊橋 (waterfall) → 雲海保線所 → 屯原 → 道西段入口 (western entrace) → Road No. 14 (car) to 廬山

map:  every days, or in Google maps
gps: every days

MIT台灣誌 document:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0629O7YNlKs

在奇萊的日子 (CH 中文):

 

第一天: 2013/8/1

行程: 合歡山登山口>黑水塘>成功山屋>奇萊北峰>磐石西峰黑水塘營地


清晨四點就起床的我們,把親愛的弟弟叫醒,需要親愛的弟弟從埔里開車送我跟Petr到合歡山登山口,中途到霧社休息的一下,買份早餐及去派出所登錄,不過派出所員警說直接在登山口外面的信箱投入就好了。吃完早餐後就直接直奔合歡山,天氣真的很不錯,沿途景色非常優美,到了松雪樓居然很巧的遇到弟妹的爸爸,真棒~越來越多人幫我們打氣。
 
與大家道別後,我跟Petr就往前走到奇萊山登山口,畢竟先前聽到太多奇萊山的傳奇故事,緊張的情緒冒然而生。我跟Petr腳程很快,途中停下拍了幾張照留念就直接往前走,到黑水塘山屋小歇了一下,吃了我們準備的蘋果及喝幾口水後再繼續往前至成功山屋也稍作休息,成功山屋很大很寬敞,看起來容納幾十人是沒問題的,在成功山屋外面有個紀念牌子,當初山屋會興建是一位醫生父親為了感謝救難小組找到因颱風失聯十幾天的兒子,並感念愛山友們不僅在登山時也可以有歇息庇護的場所。
爾後,經過成功一號,二號堡,從成功保以後的路段幾乎都是需要攀岩的路段,我們沒有多停留直接往上攻頂,這段路雖不長但是爬起來也是辛苦的,天氣就突然開始變了顏色,雲霧越來越多,也開始下起雨來。原本可以看到的景色被雲霧給籠罩,讓整個山林看起來有分陰沉沉的感覺,越爬越不起勁,但又不想停在峭壁上,也是硬著頭皮往上爬。爬到頂端竟是一片草原,不過要走到北峰還是需要一公里,天氣也越來越不好,其實當下我的心情是非常沉重的,一方面擔心天氣,一方面擔心路況,在走往北峰途中遇到隻身來登山的登山客,聽說他前晚一個人睡成功山屋,今晚他會在奇萊山屋住宿,在佩服他的勇敢之餘,好像給了我顆定心丸,也更有信心了,至少我跟Petr兩個人可以互相照顧。

接著,我們就踏往北峰的路途上,哇~我擔心的事情真的發生了,在登上北峰之前這段路真的是給它驚險,加上迷霧,手中緊抓著繩索,眼睛專注地往前頭的路看,深怕一個腳步沒站好,真的就會掉下去,此時真的讓我想到ㄧ句大家耳熟能詳的成語〝ㄧ失足成千古恨〞。
最終,還是攀爬上來,但氣候不佳,能見度不好,所以只停留了一下,拍了幾張照片留念。接著,我們繼續往前前進,走到ㄧ大片草原,接著順著地勢往下走,越往下走感覺越悽涼,也沒有路標指示,只能沿著先前登山隊留下的布條,終於走到一處可以搭營的地方。這邊的風勢很大,剛開始還把我們的帳棚給吹翻,後來我們找了好幾塊大石塊把所有的邊緣給壓住,帳篷搭好後,開始把我們的東西放置好,並煮些熱湯,休息一片刻。

休息完後,看天氣似乎沒有要好轉的樣子,一直待在帳篷裡也不是方法,我們起身到附近走走,想走到磐石山,從我們這邊看到對面群山看起來是一整片綠色的草地,走到了ㄧ處斷崖,突然看到了很奇怪讓我們覺得驚悚的畫面,有好多件衣服被丟在斷崖上,讓人看了不勝打個冷氈,也不敢多想,直直繼續往前,但….真的天公不做美,我們想往前進的想法就此打住,折返回搭營的地點,我們待在帳篷裡休息,風勢雨勢越來越大,外頭一隻水鹿也跑到我們紮營的地方,水鹿一直打量著我們,它很很溫馴,沒有攻擊我們,只是遙望著我們像似再與我們打聲招呼,歡迎我們來到這個美麗的山林,我們吃完晚餐也提早休息了,期待隔天的行程。

對了,在我們開始我們的行程時,我們沿途跟山神們祈禱,請山神一定守護著我們,還有請大家一定要遵守山林規則,不亂丟垃圾,心存感激,尊重每個生物每個植物,你相信嗎?山是有靈魂的~我看到也感受到它一直在旁邊守護著我們。

第二天-2013/8/2

行程: 磐石西峰黑水塘營地>磐石山>奇萊北峰>奇萊山屋

第二天的天氣一樣,尚未好轉,等到八點多,水鹿又來跟我捫打聲招呼,好像在跟我們道聲早安,這次我們與他更接近。吃完早餐,我們還是興起昨天尚未完成的目標,往磐石山前進,我們嘗試走到斷崖,箭竹林,但氣候越來越不好,我們只好又打到回府,一回去決定了不再休息了,直接把帳篷及所有的東西收好,往奇萊山屋前進,言下之意就是我們又要走回去昨天過來的步道,想到又要走北峰那一段路,我的頭皮又開始發麻!144

走之前,沒再見到我們的好朋友:水鹿,我們切了半顆蘋果留在大石頭上,希望水鹿回來時,可以看到我們感謝他給我們特別且溫暖的回憶。今天雨勢真是不小,我們淋著全身都溼答答的,其實我心裡也開始落寞了起來,我開始跟山神說話,希望親愛的山神可以讓我們看到奇萊山的整的面貌,可以讓我們看到整的大自然的奧妙與偉大,說也奇怪,今天在走北峰,我居然昨天的恐懼感都不見,我們的腳程很快,約兩的小時走到山屋,天氣也慢慢好轉,我們的衣服褲子也漸漸都乾了。

到了山屋,我們花了些時間把裡面整理了一下,看著太陽越來越大,我們把所有的衣服,帳篷,鞋子拿出來見見太陽,曬衣物的同時,我們遇到兩位剛登奇萊主峰的山友,他們及其他隊伍住在成功山屋,因視氣候不佳,他們放棄登頂要折返登山口,只有他們兩個上來主峰,但不攻北峰,其中一個山友還跟我們說明天氣候更不好,我們開使始有些失望,但又能如何,希望一切好轉。

我們背上來的水也都喝完了,所以要到山下河邊去取水,從山屋到水源大約要來回需要40分鐘的時間,蒐集了山屋裡所有空的寶特瓶,我們要開始攀岩下山去取水,這一段路真的不輕鬆,走到水源地是一個瀑布,真難想到三千公尺以的高山居然會有這麼豐沛的水源,山上的水很清很乾淨,一天沒洗澡的我們也稍微清洗一下,哇~山上的水很冷喔!清洗完,我們開使始背著水往上爬,往上攀岩又是另一挑戰,呼~真的累, Petr身上背了十幾二十公斤的水,體力真好。我們不緊僅幫自己,這幾天如果還有其他山友剛好來到山屋的人不用再費心費力去背水。此時,我似乎聽到山神在與我們微笑,接著的天氣出奇的好,我知道山神看到我們所為,並祝福我們的行程,想到這裡,我感動的掉了眼淚,謝謝大自然的神,趁天候的能見好,隨即到附近拍拍照片,剛好在頂端時手機基地台,打電話給媽媽報個平安。
當晚天氣好到無聲無雨,在山上完全無風無雨無聲無響,自己感覺怪怪,我想自己才是個怪人吧~哈,早點睡,明天的行程是最為艱巨可怕的,因為我們會經過卡樓山斷崖,讓人既期待又非常驚恐的路程。

第三天-2013/8/3

奇萊山屋>奇萊池山>奇萊主山>卡羅樓斷崖 >卡東(峭壁) >南峰登山口>奇萊南峰>天池叉路口>天池山莊

 

在昨晚無風無雨無聲無息的夜晚,說了也怪,我跟Petr好像也沒深沉的睡著,反而好多思緒在心頭,也許是今天的路途是這四天來會是最艱巨的,前兩天的路程對我這個初登山者已經算是極限了,今天的行程是我連想都不敢多想的,記得前兩天我希望可以活著就好了,今天是我一定要回家(哈哈哈!因為真的看到這邊險峻的路程,心裡頭總是麻麻的)
 
吃完早餐後,我跟Petr整裝出發囉,外面的景色灰灰暗暗的,稍微可以看到一些太陽升起的餘暉,真的很美,似乎讓我暫時忘記今天的路程。走著走的,前面有段往主峰的路很好走,到的主峰與卡羅樓斷崖的交叉處,要爬到主峰這段路,還是要攀爬,還好這次我們把所有的行李放在交叉處,也許少了重量,我們一下就爬上主峰,看到上面的景色,真的是讚嘆不已,我眼淚不知不覺掉下來,來到奇萊的三天,說真的我無時無刻戰戰兢兢的,深怕有個不小心,看了太多毛骨悚然的故事也害怕會遇到不乾淨的東西,但說真的沿途我們一直都很平安,也很幸運,路途雖然有些危險艱辛,但說真的只要步伐注意些,其實是很安全的。

到達主峰,這邊又有一個紀念年輕女山友的紀念碑,我順著紀念卑上的文字念了下來,感念這位勇敢堅強的山友,我低下頭也請她保佑我們今天的行程一路順利平安,接著我請山神還有天使們給我們更多力量,我們在這邊稍作休息,接著就繼續趕路,待會的斷崖是五六個小時的行程,聽說這一段路是一歨走錯就真的會掉落個粉身碎骨的懸崖峭壁。再度來到交叉口,看的卡羅樓斷崖標誌上寫著此路段為挑戰路段,身體不適者請問前往,呼~我的頭真的開始暈了,但說真的我寧願走這條路,也不想走回原路,心中有股感覺,我知道我們會很安全的。
天色也漸漸亮了,今天的天氣真的超好的,不像昨天下午遇到的兩位山友說的,我跟Petr放心許多,我只告訴自己無論如何都不往下看,只看著前面要走的路,慢慢走,小心點,不勉強,累了就休息一下。天氣真的好到到兩邊的斷崖可以看的好清楚,這條路只有一個人的歩道,一邊是岩石峭壁,一邊是懸崖,我只記得我們走了好久,好不容易走到一個可以休息的地方,P告訴我,我們才走一小段,我整個快暈倒了,奇怪的是我們待會要往前走的山路天氣好到不行,讓我們可以非常清楚的看到路況,我反而不怕,我轉過去看我們已經走過的路,雲霧開始聚集籠罩。所以,我跟P想要在天氣還沒變臉前,要快點走,我們的腳程越來越快,也越來越有經驗,P先生也一直照顧我,有需要攀岩的,他會先爬看看,確定ok,再教我如何爬,哪塊石頭比較穩,哪裡可以抓。


最後,我們終於走到了卡羅樓斷崖的盡頭,我似乎不敢相信我們就這樣走過來了,斷崖盡頭會接到另一側的岩壁石堆,那邊的石頭很大顆,也很鬆動,很難看到先前登山客綁的記號,幾乎都是用石頭堆成的小山,這段走完後,緊接的是一段樹林,感覺這邊有很久時間沒人來過,樹枝雜草叢生,長的好高,看不太前方的路,怪可怕,但畢竟比起卡羅樓斷崖,我覺得還是輕鬆多了,走完這段路後, 突然眼前一片光明,藍天白雲加上一大片草原,真是美極了,感覺我們來到天堂了,這表示我們離奇萊南峰越來越近。在奇萊南峰下,有座小小的水源,我們也把行李上那邊,往上爬到南峰,這邊的路真的就好輕鬆,路也比較大條,這時我們真的可以放輕鬆了,爬上南峰,當然也是要拍些照片留作紀念。

接著,我們往天池山莊走去,好笑的是原來住天池山莊要先登記,我這位傻妞完全不知道,還好我們準備帳篷,這邊超多登山客的,幾乎都把山莊給佔滿,山莊前面還有一大片地可以放置帳篷,這就是我們今晚落腳的地方。

我覺得奇萊山真的很美,主北峰的美是高聳峻峭,只可遠觀不可褻玩焉,會讓人窒息的美,南峰的美是親切可掬,兩者之美都是我很愛的。我真的很開心也對自己驕傲,因為可以順利完成這個艱鉅的任務,我爬過奇萊山,我相信我也可以戰勝我心中的那座奇萊山,我會帶著這個美麗回憶身藏在我心中,奇萊,謝謝您給我這麼觸動的回憶。


第四天-2013/8/4

天池山莊>瀑布,吊橋>雲海保線所>屯原>道西段入> Road No. 14 (car) >廬山

這一天是最沒有壓力的一天,清晨一起床,我跟P把所有東西收拾好,吃些簡單早餐,就直接往下走,這一段路很寬廣,是搬運車可以進來的路段,我們輕鬆走,沿途拍照到達登山口處,很感激遇到一未善心的大哥載送我們下山。此次旅程過程驚險曲折,以最完美完滿及平安結束。我會永遠謹記在心的,人真的很渺小,我們真的要無時無刻有顆感激及敬畏的心,珍惜身旁所愛的人,我學到好多的經驗,人生只有這麼ㄧ次,我真的覺得ㄧ定要做些冒險勇敢的事情,綻放生命的光采。謝謝您~奇萊,您讓我感受到了~

This is window to my diary, should works fine on computer:

Few videos

Photos (click for slide show)

Day1

奇萊登山口
 黑水塘(cottage)
成功山屋 (bigger cottage)
between 奇萊北峰 (Chilai North Peak) and cottage
奇萊北峰 (Chilai North Peak)
磐石西峰黑水塘營地(tent, water)
very strange
this was very strange – dress close to deep cliff
磐石西峰黑水塘營地(tent)
deer likes eat human urina

Day2

Happy meal
very misterious place
back to north peak
 奇萊山屋 (Chilaishan house or tent, water 150 m lower)
 奇萊池山
to sout, to main peak
went back and take finally picture of North peak

 

Day3

 奇萊主山 (Chilai main peak)
奇萊主山 (Chilai main peak)
卡東(峭壁, cliffts – very difficult part, 5+ hours)
this was no easy with big bag
place for then in case, but dont wish stay here during the bad weather
many parts were really exponed
walking in bamboo
yes
scree part, have to go left down
way to 南華山 (sout peak
 南峰 登山口 (to south peak, 溪谷,water, in case tent
 南華山 (sout peak)
天池山莊 (house – reservation 500 NTD or tent, water)
天池山莊 (house – reservation 500 NTD or tent, water)
very tired

Day4

  (waterfall)
能高越嶺古道 Western Nen-gao Trail – 瀑布,吊橋 (waterfall
能高越嶺古道 Western Nen-gao Trail
 道西段入口 (western entrace) → Road No. 14 (car) to 廬山

Leave a Reply